Weekly blog #173: Hydra, a love letter to a Greek island

I had never been to Greece. Never to Crete, Kos or Rhodes, the popular, and therefore widely known, destinations where the Dutch go to en masse each year. Never to Santorini or Mykonos, where every travel blogger has been to and taken the dreamiest photos for Instagram. And never even been to Athens, the city with the oldest and most preserved history of all Europe.

After several – extremely wonderful – Italian summers, I knew one thing for sure: this year I wanted to go abroad

Until now. Because after several – extremely wonderful – Italian summers “estate italiane”, I knew one thing for sure: this year I wanted to go abroad. But for a very long time, this summer’s destination remained unknown. When I got back to Milan in the first week of August, after spending a large part of July with my family in the Netherlands, it was the highest time to decide. Of course, it wasn’t me who saved the trip. It was Lucas, one of my best friends and my favorite travel buddy for years already, who, late one night, it was almost midnight already, instructed me to “immediately book the attractive return tickets Milan-Athens”. You could safely call it a miracle he had managed to find those tickets, as it was the absolute high season and also very last-minute. The day of departure? Just a week later!

The only requirement I had for this trip was to endlessly swim in the Mediterranean (like every year, in fact)

So, Greece it was! The only requirement I had for this trip was to endlessly swim in the Mediterranean (like every year, in fact). Hence, a Greek island was what we opted for, but which one out of the hundreds? I made a half-hearted attempt to do some ‘research’ as well, and so, sent Lucas some links of the most breath-taking Instagram reels (where else to do your research, right?). But I already knew: all I have to do is wait, and everything will be taken care of.

I need to confess: I had never even heard of the island a week before our departure

And that’s exactly how it was. His response? Very nice those links you forwarded, but I personally think we should go to Hydra. Ehm, where? Well, a beautiful island without mass tourism, where the Athenians themselves go. An island where, as you enter the harbour by boat, you are greeted by the most beautiful stately houses that form the front line of the port town of Hydra. It’s small, car-free (heaven!), and with the most crystal blue sea and breath-taking rocky beaches. I need to confess: I had never even heard of the island a week before our departure. But now? Now I want to return to Hydra every year. Because oh my, what a dream it was.

On our private rooftop, I feasted on the bakery’s local spinach-feta cake and fresh figs

Every day, we started our day with a coffee and hugs from a beautiful grey cat called Matchie – one of the hundreds of cats living on Hydra – in the most idyllic spot on the island: a tiny bar in the shade of a lemon tree. We stayed in a typical whitewashed Greek cottage with blue shutters called “Maria’s house”. It actually really looked like the cottage of an old and sweet Greek lady, with white crocheted curtains in front of the windows, and an cosy wooden kitchen. On our private rooftop, I feasted on the bakery’s local spinach-feta cake and fresh figs. The stunning view over the hillside houses and our laundry hanging to dry in the calm summer breeze that was blowing in from the sea, made it all not less than perfect.

At almost every moment during the ride, we could see the blue sea in the distance, glittering below us in the early morning sun

One morning we got up before dawn to trek into the mountains on beautiful horses, all the way to an ancient monastery at the top of the mountain. At almost every moment during the ride, we could see the blue sea in the distance, glittering below us in the early morning sun. Lucas wanted to finally use his boating licence – obtained on the Paris Seine – at a place you actually get a boating licence for, and so we rented a beautiful boat for a ride on the sea in the late afternoon sun. We were treated to a golden hour I will remember for a very long time. 

Apart from the horse ride and the boat, we really only did one thing

Apart from the horse ride and the boat, we really only did one thing. Exactly that what had been my requirement for this holiday: to swim in the sea. Every day, we clambered down the steep steps carved into the rocks, looking for a spot on a rather flat piece of stone to install ourselves. From there, we jumped into the water countless times. In the evening, the island suddenly turned into a bustling place. We had dinner at the cosiest taverns and sipped cocktails at the bar where, less than 12 hours later, we would settle down again for our morning coffee.

My only thought when we got back on the boat – back to the mainland – was: I’ll be back

It was a life, a rhythm, that I could have continued living for many more weeks. Hence, my only thought when we got back on the boat – back to the mainland – was: I’ll be back. Now that’s a thought I have almost every year, at almost every destination I visit. That’s why I know that there is only a little chance that I will really return, because when it’s finally summer again next year, there are so many other beautiful places I want to visit. But still, Hydra is different. The island has a place in my heart forever. Because in a few months’ time, when it’s autumn, and when it’s dark at five o’clock in the afternoon already with rain pouring down our windows, I will think about her very often. That lovely Greek island, shining in the summer sun.