Rome is empty. Under the burning sun, the Italian capital feels quiet and deserted, the streets abandoned. When I took my cousin – who had been here in Rome with me for a few days to have a taste of la dolce vita – to the train station last Friday around five o’clock in the afternoon, this place was very crowded however. The reason? The massive departure of the Romans leaving the city to visit family and friends with houses close to the sea. Because last Saturday, it was Ferragosto, or the Assumption of Virgin Mary.
Below several articles and blogs on Facebook about this topic, I saw the discussions arise
But what is the meaning and what are the origins of this day, one of the most extensively celebrated holidays in Italy? Below several articles and blogs on Facebook about this topic, I saw the discussions arise last Saturday: on the one hand there were the people who claimed that it is one of the most important holidays in the Catholic Church, namely the day when Mary ascends to Heaven forever and is reunited with her son Jesus. On the other hand, there were the people who claimed that the Italians owe this day off to Emperor Augustus, who, in the year 18 BC during his reign, inaugurated a day of rest after the harvest period so the popolo, the people, could relax and enjoy themselves after months of hard work in the fields. Feriae Augusti was the name of this day, which meant the festivities of Augustus. I’m sure you won’t be surprised that both are right.
The church decided to do a trick they had already done before
Emperor Augustus indeed proclaimed this day of rest, although he chose the very first day of August for it. When the Catholic Church took over power, they of course wanted to get rid of the pagan festivities. However, they were afraid of an uprising by the people when they would abolish their beloved day off in the middle of the summer, and so the church decided to do a trick they had already done before. As Virgin Mary happened to ascend to heaven that same month, they decided not to cancel Ferragosto completely, but to simply move it two weeks to the fifteenth and rename it the Assumption of Mary, making sure to keep the people satisfied.
This day is, in contrast to the image we often have abroad of Italians who dine at long tables with the whole family every single day, one of the rare days that they indeed sit at the table in large numbers
Nevertheless, the name Ferragosto continued to exist, and to this day this is the popular term that is used. But how do Italians celebrate this day? Since the 15th of August is a day off (which was bad luck this year as it fell on a Saturday), there are parties everywhere in the evening of the 14th. Everybody is out on the streets, nobody goes to bed (not even the little ones), and in all coastal towns and villages in the mountains and in the countryside, there are fairs with lots of food and lots of music. In the big cities like Rome however, you will hardly find any of this. Not surprising, because almost everybody has left town. Fifteen August itself mainly revolves around two things: food and being at the beach (apart from the Italians going to the mountains). Extensive Ferragosto lunch menus with up to eight courses are offered in just about every restaurant on the coast. This day is, in contrast to the image we often have abroad of Italians who dine at long tables with the whole family every single day, one of the rare days that they indeed sit at the table in large numbers. Grandpas, grandmas, aunts, uncles, nieces and nephews. Families that are finally reunited again, often for the first time since Christmas or Easter. For many people, Ferragosto was even more special this year, as the Italians have celebrated Easter in complete lockdown.
Sunday evening, our search for a pizzeria that was still open lasted longer than an hour, as only the ninth restaurant we called was not ‘in ferie’ yet
Although there are Italian companies that start to close their doors around the first August already, Ferragosto is the real starting signal for a collective and nation-wide out-of-office. All shops, bars and restaurants are currently displaying the same notes on the door with the exact dates from when until when they are ‘In ferie’. Making a quick round through the city teaches me that I can expect hardly any activity before the twenty-fifth of August and this can be quite challenging if you stay in Rome. Sunday evening, our search for a pizzeria that was still open lasted longer than an hour, as only the ninth restaurant we called was not ‘in ferie’ yet.
Suddenly, Ferragosto marks an undeniable point of reference in that endless summer that at the same time makes you realise that September is about to arrive very soon
Below one of the Facebook articles I read a nostalgic comment, steeped in melancholy. An Italian remarked that, even though for most companies Ferragosto is the beginning of the summer holidays, it feels like the beginning of the end at the same time. The children have been off school for weeks already and often spend almost the entire summer with their nonni, their grandparents, outside the big cities. From Ferragosto on, the parents finally join them to enjoy another two weeks of that wonderful summer in which actually every day has the same rhythm. A coffee when you wake up, a quick breakfast, off to the beach, back home for an extensive lunch, a short siesta, and then back to the beach again. Gradually you forget what day it is, and maybe even what week. Suddenly, Ferragosto marks an undeniable point of reference in that endless summer that at the same time makes you realise that September is about to arrive very soon – probably sooner than you’d like. Compare it to Christmas. When it’s finally Christmas Eve, you also know that after months of getting in the mood and listening to the Christmas songs, the holidays will be over very quickly. As the Italian said, it’s the beginning of the end.
Despite the fact that it is still very hot, the days are secretly starting to shorten again. I realised that I actually look forward to September
But every end is a new beginning. For me personally it was a very quiet Ferragosto-weekend in which it felt like I was the only person in the whole of Italy who wasn’t on the beach. I also took a moment to realise that the summer has now started its final chapter. Despite the fact that it is still very hot, the days are secretly starting to shorten again. I realised that I actually look forward to September. I’m looking forward to moving into a new place that I will be looking for in the near future. I’m also looking forward to start working on new projects. And yes, I’m even looking forward to finally being able to put a jumper on again at nights. In many ways, I feel like the first of September marks the beginning of something new even more than the first of January. But… for now Italy is still enjoying her summer holidays, and that means I’m going to relish those long, lazy summer days by the sea a little more too. Days on which you don’t have to do anything at all. Exactly how Emperor Augustus intended it to be.