Ciaone. In other words, a very big ciao. Nowadays, this little word is used more and more often – by mostly young people – to the great displeasure of Italian linguists because of what they consider to be the “degradation” of the language. Nevertheless, I too am guilty of using this word from time to time. Because sometimes it expresses exactly what you try to say. A kind of “ok, byeee” for something negative, or “well, hello there!” for something positive.
Dear God, this city was not made for August
And now during these high summer days in which July has turned into August, this is exactly what I feel towards Rome. Because dear God, this city was not made for August. It may have been the Roman emperor Augustus where the eighth month of the year was named after, but the month of August and Rome are definitely not a match made in heaven.
If you have the chance to leave, you are not spending your time in the city, seems to be the unwritten rule.
A fact that the Italians themselves have been aware of for a long time already. If you have the chance to leave, you are not spending your time in the city, seems to be the unwritten rule. Almost everyone seems to have a second home by the sea or in the countryside, that has often been in the family for generations. At the weekend, when it’s not possible to stay in the air-conditioned offices, people go there, and every weekend a large crew of people – from close friends to colleagues to friends of friends and even vague acquaintances – is invited to come over too. After all, no one should have to stay in Rome melting away in the heat, is the collectively shared idea.
Myself I also left home early on Saturday morning. My destination: Sabaudia
Myself I also left home early on Saturday morning. My destination: Sabaudia, a seaside town between Rome and Naples where, apart from the beach, there isn’t that much to do. I spent the whole weekend with a friend who had the brilliant idea of moving there for the months of July and August. So, our only activities were going to the beach, eating gelato and toasting with an aperol spritz while enjoying the sunset. Such friends are simply indispensable for any inhabitant of the Eternal City who is not lucky enough to have a family home by the sea.
It’s the feeling of being a bit of a loser if you actually do find yourself in Rome still
And I am well aware of how incredibly spoiled this must come across, like something that people abroad might find hard to imagine. But it’s not just the heat in itself, which I can actually handle quite well, that makes the city less pleasant. It’s the fact that your favourite coffee bar and pizzeria remain closed for three whole – agonisingly long – weeks. It’s the somewhat sad sight of all those closed shutters when you walk through the neighbourhood. It’s the asphalt that melts and leaves sticky grime on the soles of your shoes. It’s the fact that organising a simple lunch with friends is a mission impossible, as you can expect a deluge of “Scusa, io non ci sono” – “I’m not here” – messages as a reply. It’s the cockroaches that creep through your house and literally come out of nowhere giving you a heart attack when you almost step on them with your bare feet. It’s the fact that my supermarket has decided to remain closed for the whole month for renovations as this is the period they miss out the least in terms of revenue. It’s the feeling of being a bit of a loser if you actually do find yourself in Rome still. It’s the fact that no one seems to be able to talk about anything else – you would think that Italians would be used to a little heat, but that is one of the biggest misconceptions foreigners have – and every conversation starts with “Madonna, fa caldo”, “My god, it’s so hot”. It’s how simple things like cooking and blow-drying your hair have suddenly become activities that require a pep talk before undertaking them. It’s how that pungent smell of the trash invades your nostrils every time you pass the bins. And it’s even the fact that in the evening, after a long and busy day, you are forced to suppress your desire for a cup of camomile tea and watching a movie under a blanket and you have no other choice than to install yourself in front of the fan instead.
I actually believe it would be super valuable for everyone to be forced to downshift a few gears halfway through the year. To let yourself be carried away by the languid feeling of high summer with a sun hat on your head
It was absolutely not my intention for this blog to be a lamentation, on the contrary. I even dare to say that the heat in Rome is certainly as much a blessing as a curse. It literally forces people down on their knees, to slow down and just let things go. I actually believe it would be super valuable for everyone to be forced to downshift a few gears halfway through the year. To let yourself be carried away by the languid feeling of high summer with a sun hat on your head, while reflecting on the first half of the year and dreaming of all these amazing new plans for the second.
In August it just seems to be a little bit harder to love Rome
And that is exactly what I did last weekend. It was so wonderful that I immediately promised myself to leave the city at least every weekend for the entire month. Because, so I thought to myself under that coloured parasol in Sabaudia, in August it just seems to be a little bit harder to love Rome. But you know what? That’s completely fine too, because before we know it, September will be here again. Ciaone Roma, most beautiful city in the world, if you let me go now, I will be yours again for the rest of the year.