When you think of the ultimate winter destination to get yourself into the Christmas spirit, you might not immediately think of Rome. As a teenager, of course heavily influenced by the film “The Holiday”, I always dreamt of spending Christmas in London or some other English city. A good friend of mine even moved heaven and earth about ten years ago to be able to do her exchange in England in the first semester instead of the second, as her study prescribed. Purely and simply because she wanted to experience Christmas in England. Other famous Christmas destinations are the world-famous Christmas markets in Germany, or romantic, snowy Vienna. And even if you’d think of Italy for Christmas, you’d probably think of a city like Turin rather than Rome.
It was the biggest surprise ever when December came six years ago, and I witnessed – a little overwhelmed by how cold it gets here in December as well – how grand and exuberant the Italians were in this last month of the year
When I moved to Rome in the summer of 2015 for my own university exchange, I was particularly excited by the prospect of abundant sunshine and being able to go to the beach in mid-October. I hadn’t thought about Christmas at all. Well, I even had in mind that it might be celebrated quite religiously, and therefore a bit sober, in this country where the majority of the population is Catholic. It was therefore the biggest surprise ever when December came six years ago, and I witnessed – a little overwhelmed by how cold it gets here in December as well – how grand and exuberant the Italians were in this last month of the year. And surely, I should have known better, as “sober” and “Italians” are two words that do not go together at all.
What is it that makes Christmas in Rome so special?
After having lived in Italy for that exchange year, I moved back to Rome once again two years ago. Hence, this is already the fourth December that I get to live here, and every year it surprises me. Like a present you know is coming, but that seems to be even more wonderful every year. But what is it that makes Christmas in Rome so special?
You would probably not expect it of such a traditional institution as the Vatican, but the classic, widely known nativity scene takes on a completely different form every year
Of course, it is the arrival of Spelacchio, Rome’s big Christmas tree, in Piazza Venezia to which the Romans look forward very much and which always attracts a lot of attention. Because you need to know, this Christmas tree is not just any tree. It’s a tree with a special story, which I tell in one of my blogposts two years ago. However, there is another large Christmas tree that causes a lot of excitement in the city: the metres-high tree in Saint Peter’s Square. However, even more special than the tree is the nativity scene. You would probably not expect it of such a traditional institution as the Vatican, but the classic, widely known nativity scene takes on a completely different form every year. Last year’s “Back to the Future” nativity scene with abstract, futuristic puppets drew a storm of criticism, and I could hardly believe my eyes to see one of the Three Kings in the shape of an astronaut and another as some kind of futuristic gladiator. This year, the nativity scene is in total Peruvian style, and the ox and donkey have had to give up their place to some incredibly cute alpacas. Mary, Joseph and the shepherds are all dressed in the traditional garments woven with brightly coloured yarn.
Wherever you look, the red, blue, yellow and green lights flash merrily together. From mid-November, pandoros and panettones are piled up to the ceiling
And if you happen to find yourself in Rome in December, be sure to take a stroll in the shopping streets around Piazza di Spagna at the time of dusk. You will be amazed. Every year, all the luxury shops that are located here show off with the most beautiful and tasteful window displays. They are true works of art in themselves. But it is not only the luxury brands that use the Christmas period to splurge. I find it even more adorable how no single coffee shop, and I really mean no single coffee shop, stays behind in this abundance of fairy lights. There’s seems to be only one thing that counts: the more, the better. Wherever you look, the red, blue, yellow and green lights flash merrily together. From mid-November, pandoros and panettones are piled up to the ceiling. These are the two traditional, Italian Christmas cakes, and there is simply no Italian Christmas without them. The packaging is even more important than the content, and every year it is a sport to find the most beautiful ones, something I can easily spend half a day on. Lifting them up one by one and admiring them.
I believe that there are few things more enjoyable than going into a beautiful, warm and cosy enoteca – a wine bar of which there are so many here – at around five o’clock, when darkness has fallen over Rome, and having a glass of red wine while the familiar Christmas carols fill the room
The Christmas period in Italy also means going for a cioccolata calda, a “hot chocolate”. Unlike in other parts of the world, this is literally hot, melted chocolate, and not chocolate milk. You can probably imagine how heavy this is and that many Italian children spontaneously get nauseous after drinking it. But in December, that could hardly spoil the fun as for the parents, it is a celebration too. I believe that there are few things more enjoyable than going into a beautiful, warm and cosy enoteca – a wine bar of which there are so many here – at around five o’clock, when darkness has fallen over Rome, and having a glass of red wine while the familiar Christmas carols fill the room.
Just like every year, I will be taking a little bit of that Italian Christmas magic with me in my suitcase
It’s only eleven days until Christmas Eve, and I am almost flying back to the Netherlands. Just a few more days to fully immerse myself in the Italian Christmas magic. To me, the best thing about Christmas is coming home and being with my family and all my friends again. The least I like about Christmas is having to leave Rome and its magical atmosphere behind. A little contradictory, isn’t it? But that is why, just like every year, I will be taking a little bit of that Italian Christmas magic with me in my suitcase. In the form of a real panettone, of course.