#71 Zona Rossa (English)

It’s Monday the fifteenth of March, and we woke up this morning in Rome in zona rossa. A very large part of Italy – the majority of all 20 regions that is – is back in total lockdown. The synchronicity of this event has not escaped anyone’s notice as it is exactly a year ago that the Italians were ordered to stay indoors and, every day at six o’clock, came out to their balconies to sing in order to alleviate the bizarre reality in which they found themselves from one moment to the next. 

By the time we had closed our laptops and a fellow freelancer and I had matched our drinks to our possible fates (I took a red wine, he an orange Aperol Spritz), our collective fear became reality: zona rossa. A complete lockdown

Friday late in the afternoon, the news came out. News that most people had not quite seen coming. Until today, Lazio – the region of Rome – was zona gialla, zone yellow. Schools and shops were open as usual, and bars and restaurants until six o’clock. The streets, parks and squares were full of life. The fact that we had slipped into zona arancione (zone orange) – which would mean that all restaurants and bars would close again – was obvious to everyone by now, but zona rossa – a complete lockdown – still came as a surprise. Even more because this new government had added a new hue to the colour palette: zona arancione scura (zone dark orange) – the Italians remain artists at heart – and the dreaded red zone was given an extra vestibule. Throughout Friday, the situation remained very unclear and news outlets reported different messages. However, by the time we had closed our laptops and a fellow freelancer and I had matched our drinks to our possible fates (I took a red wine, he an orange Aperol Spritz), our collective fear became reality: zona rossa. A complete lockdown that would take effect after the weekend.

The verdict was unrelenting: up until now, the colour code per region was revised every two weeks, but this time, the government informed us that we were going to remain in zona rossa until Easter at least

It is probably needless to say that there was no Roman to be found indoors last weekend. Two more days of freedom, two more days of eating out and two more days of hanging out with friends on ancient bridges between baroque statues. The Roman hairdressers were fully booked and they worked very hard to prevent the dreaded lockdown hairstyles – especially with men – before they even have the chance to grow uncontrollably. The verdict was unrelenting: up until now, the colour code per region was revised every two weeks, but this time, the government informed us that we were going to remain in zona rossa until Easter at least. 

There was much speculation and very patiently, I listened to it all, in an attempt to mentally prepare myself

From that moment on, people couldn’t think or speak about anything else. Plans were changed, last-minute shopping was done and flight tickets rescheduled. However, the big question remained: how was it really going to be? Would it be as strict as last year when one was not allowed to go to the supermarket without filling in a form? Not allowed to go outside further than 200 metres around one’s house? There was much speculation and very patiently, I listened to it all, in an attempt to mentally prepare myself. Taking a walk would not be allowed, but jogging would be, so if you would just put on a pair of sports trousers and trainers for your daily stroll and spontaneously start to sprint should a police car come around the corner, you would be fine. Going outside to get a coffee at your favourite bar – which is still allowed to do take-aways – would not be allowed, but doing grocery shopping at the supermarket next door would be, so if you would just buy some pasta before your coffee break, you would not be doing anything wrong. Traveling to a neighbourhood in the city which isn’t your own would not be allowed, but if your work authorised you to move outside your own zone, you could just as well visit your aunt who happens to live close to your work. And that’s how the Italians didn’t stop reasoning about all possible scenarios all weekend. 

The residents of the area were quite desperate, so they came up with a brilliant plan. At about the same time, they all came out with a grocery bag to then form a queue in front of the supermarket, respecting the distance of one metre between them and with their faces taking in the sunlight

It reminded me of the anecdote the Roman Romanian had shared with me, the owner of the Airbnb where I briefly stayed. He lives in the heart of the city, in an alley where the houses are built very close together. If you live on the second floor or lower, hardly any sunlight enters your house. As you can imagine, people here were dying to go outside, but during last year’s severe lockdown they were only allowed to walk to the supermarket. However, in the densely populated centre there is always a supermarket only a stone’s throw away, which wasn’t really helping either of course. Standing still on thepiazza for a minute to enjoy the sun was absolutely not allowed, and it was strictly enforced by the carabinieri who patrolled the area all day long. After a while, the residents of the area were quite desperate, so they came up with a brilliant plan. At about the same time, they all came out with a grocery bag to then form a queue in front of the supermarket, respecting the distance of one metre between them and with their faces taking in the sunlight. As there was only a maximum number of people allowed in the shop at all times, the carabinieri didn’t think any of it. However, after a while, they realised that the queue was not moving at all. When a supermarket employee came out a little later not being able to hide his surprise about all the supposedly waiting people as there was hardly anyone in the shop, their little stolen moment in the blazing spring sun was over, unfortunately.

When I woke up this morning and I slowly opened my eyes, it was the very first thought that crossed my mind: zona rossa. However, I was highly surprised to hear all these noises outside. This didn’t sound in the least like a city in total lockdown

When I woke up this morning and I slowly opened my eyes, it was the very first thought that crossed my mind: zona rossa. However, I was highly surprised to hear all these noises outside. This didn’t sound in the least like a city in total lockdown. From my balcony, I then looked out over the busy intersection where I could see at least fifteen people waiting at the traffic lights. Each one with either a dog, a grocery bag or dressed up in sportswear. I couldn’t help but smile and breathe a sigh of relief. Let’s just say that the Italians learned some wise lessons from the total lockdown last spring. And me? In no time at all, I too had a grocery bag in my hands while getting myself into my sports leggings. After all, it is better to be safe than sorry.